The North Trailhead
At the actual trailhead to the climb are two huge vertical poles (trees) on the beach, which is several hundred feet wide at this point. One of these poles is completely wrapped in orange and white nylon tape. These are usefull as well to help hikers find the campground from the beach, as the campgound is located behind many large sand dunes, and is hidden from view of the beach. Park in the small lot adjacent to the campground, no charge.
It can also be reached from from a central access off of Highway 101 by turning off the 101 onto Mattole Road at Humboldt Redwoods State Park, home of the largest living things on earth, California's giant redwood trees, which grow in huge groves right up to the edge of the narrow little road, blocking out the sunlight as the canopy of this rainforest stretches over three hundred feet above ground level. The road will first take you over a mountain range to the little hamlet of Honeydew. Take the right fork at Honeydew to reach Petrolia, another ten miles or more, then at the first outskirts of Petrolia turn left on Lighthouse Road just before the bridge at the Mattole River, drive a few miles and access the Mattole Campground along Lighthouse Road. You can leave your vehicle here for free in a small parking lot adjacent to the campground.
At the actual trailhead to the climb are two huge vertical poles (trees) on the beach, which is several hundred feet wide at this point. One of these poles is completely wrapped in orange and white nylon tape. These are usefull as well to help hikers find the campground from the beach, as the campgound is located behind many large sand dunes, and is hidden from view of the beach. Park in the small lot adjacent to the campground, no charge.
It can also be reached from from a central access off of Highway 101 by turning off the 101 onto Mattole Road at Humboldt Redwoods State Park, home of the largest living things on earth, California's giant redwood trees, which grow in huge groves right up to the edge of the narrow little road, blocking out the sunlight as the canopy of this rainforest stretches over three hundred feet above ground level. The road will first take you over a mountain range to the little hamlet of Honeydew. Take the right fork at Honeydew to reach Petrolia, another ten miles or more, then at the first outskirts of Petrolia turn left on Lighthouse Road just before the bridge at the Mattole River, drive a few miles and access the Mattole Campground along Lighthouse Road. You can leave your vehicle here for free in a small parking lot adjacent to the campground.
The Lost Coast Trail, from the North Trailhead
There are two trailheads to begin the Lost Coast hike from - one at either end. You can start out from the north at the Mattole Campground, near Petrolia, or from the south at Black Sands Beach, next to the little town of Shelter Cove. Keep in mind that winds tearing down the coast at hurricane force make for an unpleasant hike. Find a good, accurate weather forecaster and find out whether prevailing winds are moving north or south along the coast, and go with the wind. A fierce facial sandblasting could be the result of hiking against the wind here.
Let's assume you will begin from the north trailhead, which, due to prevailing winds, is the most often-used starting point on the Lost Coast Trail. There are three main sections to the trail:
Mattole to Randall Creek
This section is mostly beach hiking but look for spots where the trail climbs to coastal terraces for easier hiking. Tide zones around Punta Gorda and Sea Lion Gulch may be impassable at high tide. There are sheltered campsites near Randall and Cooksie creeks.
Randall Flat to Big Flat
This is mostly hiking on a firm grassy surface and on terraces above the beach. Grassy ridges transform to thickly forested mountains at Spanish Flat. There are sheltered campsites at Spanish, Kinsey and Big Creeks, and at Big Flat.
Big Flat to Black Sands Beach.
This section is all beach hiking south of Big Flat. Big Flat to Gitchell Creek may be impassable at high tide. There are sheltered campsites at Shipman, Buck, Gitchell and Horse Mountain creeks. Mudslides along the entire Lost Coast have created obstructions where none existed before. The already-difficult terrain along the tide zone between Shipman Creek and Buck Creek has been made more difficult to pass, following the winter rains of 2006. Many streams are impassable as well after winter storms.
Begin hiking along the sandy beach, which is not as black and pebbly as the sand of Black Sands Beach, 24.4 miles south. There is a worn trail about three hundred feet inland, on solid dirt, which is much easier to hike on than the sand of the beaches. It follows the shoreline, sometimes joining up with the beach itself, where you may notice the hiking is a little more difficullt. When on the sand, the easiest way to hike is to stay low on the wet sand, just out of reach of the waves. A combination of the low tide pulling back the sand and the moisture of the sand itself makes for easy walking; there is always a "sweet spot". Be sure to watch out for large, unpredictable sneaker waves of unusual size and force, which can come roaring in without warning and travel much higher up the beach than the average surf. These waves have trapped and drowned unwary hikers in the past. Never turn your back on the ocean, especially this close to the waves.
There are two trailheads to begin the Lost Coast hike from - one at either end. You can start out from the north at the Mattole Campground, near Petrolia, or from the south at Black Sands Beach, next to the little town of Shelter Cove. Keep in mind that winds tearing down the coast at hurricane force make for an unpleasant hike. Find a good, accurate weather forecaster and find out whether prevailing winds are moving north or south along the coast, and go with the wind. A fierce facial sandblasting could be the result of hiking against the wind here.
Let's assume you will begin from the north trailhead, which, due to prevailing winds, is the most often-used starting point on the Lost Coast Trail. There are three main sections to the trail:
Mattole to Randall Creek
This section is mostly beach hiking but look for spots where the trail climbs to coastal terraces for easier hiking. Tide zones around Punta Gorda and Sea Lion Gulch may be impassable at high tide. There are sheltered campsites near Randall and Cooksie creeks.
Randall Flat to Big Flat
This is mostly hiking on a firm grassy surface and on terraces above the beach. Grassy ridges transform to thickly forested mountains at Spanish Flat. There are sheltered campsites at Spanish, Kinsey and Big Creeks, and at Big Flat.
Big Flat to Black Sands Beach.
This section is all beach hiking south of Big Flat. Big Flat to Gitchell Creek may be impassable at high tide. There are sheltered campsites at Shipman, Buck, Gitchell and Horse Mountain creeks. Mudslides along the entire Lost Coast have created obstructions where none existed before. The already-difficult terrain along the tide zone between Shipman Creek and Buck Creek has been made more difficult to pass, following the winter rains of 2006. Many streams are impassable as well after winter storms.
Begin hiking along the sandy beach, which is not as black and pebbly as the sand of Black Sands Beach, 24.4 miles south. There is a worn trail about three hundred feet inland, on solid dirt, which is much easier to hike on than the sand of the beaches. It follows the shoreline, sometimes joining up with the beach itself, where you may notice the hiking is a little more difficullt. When on the sand, the easiest way to hike is to stay low on the wet sand, just out of reach of the waves. A combination of the low tide pulling back the sand and the moisture of the sand itself makes for easy walking; there is always a "sweet spot". Be sure to watch out for large, unpredictable sneaker waves of unusual size and force, which can come roaring in without warning and travel much higher up the beach than the average surf. These waves have trapped and drowned unwary hikers in the past. Never turn your back on the ocean, especially this close to the waves.
You'll see a small creek dropping from the steep cliffs at 3/4 mile. After a mile you'll pass Smith Gulch, a good fresh water source. Round a sandy point rimmed by tidepools at 1.5 miles. The bluffs protrude into the Pacific at Windy Point. The beach narrows here, and gets rockier. After 2 miles you round the point of Punta Gorda where Conical Rock lies offshore. As you pass an old road descending from the bluffs at 2.5 miles, the Punta Gorda lighthouse ruins come into view. For a break from beach walking you can follow a firm roadbed along the base of the bluffs.
At around 2.5 miles from the trailhead you will see two unpainted old bunkhouses, with a few lengths of corral still intact. People have been spotted in and about these old houses, two hundred feet apart, but their purpose is unknown. About 3.2 miles from Mattole Campground you will reach the abandoned Punta Gorda Lighthouse, which was ultimately built to prevent ships from striking the rocks of the reefs in this area during the windy storms that lashed this remote point. The lighthouse was built at the turn of the century using materials ferried ashore by a long cable attached to a schooner berthed offshore in safer waters. The wreck of a seventy-foot shrimp boat and its Caterpillar diesel engine still lie on the rocky shoreline at Punta Gorda. Magnificent tidepools, rookeries of seals and sea lions, and a variety of sea birds make this area their home.
At around 2.5 miles from the trailhead you will see two unpainted old bunkhouses, with a few lengths of corral still intact. People have been spotted in and about these old houses, two hundred feet apart, but their purpose is unknown. About 3.2 miles from Mattole Campground you will reach the abandoned Punta Gorda Lighthouse, which was ultimately built to prevent ships from striking the rocks of the reefs in this area during the windy storms that lashed this remote point. The lighthouse was built at the turn of the century using materials ferried ashore by a long cable attached to a schooner berthed offshore in safer waters. The wreck of a seventy-foot shrimp boat and its Caterpillar diesel engine still lie on the rocky shoreline at Punta Gorda. Magnificent tidepools, rookeries of seals and sea lions, and a variety of sea birds make this area their home.
Small sections around Punta Gorda may be impassable at high tide, but in some instances it may be possible to bypass these sections by climbing up and over rocks onto higher ground, on drier, high, grassy trails. Other difficult sections may also be surpassed, such as the boulder field-style rocky beach presented about a mile south of the Punta Gorda lighthouse. At high tide, a traverse of this long curving beach would be wet at best; difficult and risky as well. There are several other impassable sections along the route. Some sections of the impassable areas may simply be too dangerous to attempt a bypass, depending on the cliffs themselves and the terrain above them. Timing is important; consult your tide table.
Just before the lighthouse, a path forks left to the lighthouse ruins. Continue down the coast on the old four wheel drive track, crossing several more creeks. At 3.5 miles you can return to the beach or climb a hill to stay on the road. The road provides one more chance to return to the beach after another quarter mile of hiking. Either route comes to steep Sea Lion Gulch at 4 miles. Sea Lion Gulch has a good fresh water source and shelter from the wind. Sea lions, seals and sea birds make this area around Sea Lion Rocks their home. The beach narrows after Sea Lion Gulch. Sea lions, cormorants and pelicans inhabit Sea Lion Rocks offshore. Around 4.5 miles the beach may be impassable at high tide. When you pass through the narrow spot, slippery rocks slow your progress, but the walking becomes easier at the base of steep bluffs and cliffs.
Just before the lighthouse, a path forks left to the lighthouse ruins. Continue down the coast on the old four wheel drive track, crossing several more creeks. At 3.5 miles you can return to the beach or climb a hill to stay on the road. The road provides one more chance to return to the beach after another quarter mile of hiking. Either route comes to steep Sea Lion Gulch at 4 miles. Sea Lion Gulch has a good fresh water source and shelter from the wind. Sea lions, seals and sea birds make this area around Sea Lion Rocks their home. The beach narrows after Sea Lion Gulch. Sea lions, cormorants and pelicans inhabit Sea Lion Rocks offshore. Around 4.5 miles the beach may be impassable at high tide. When you pass through the narrow spot, slippery rocks slow your progress, but the walking becomes easier at the base of steep bluffs and cliffs.
Another 5.2 miles from Punta Gorda will put you at Spanish Flat. Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat often consists of hard, talus-like beaches with large rocky obstacles, difficult at low tide and at best dangerous or impossible with some higher tides. At Mile 4.5 to Mile 8.4 is another sketchy, impassable area, which extends from Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek, before reaching Spanish Flat. Randall Creek has an exceptionally rocky basin and can be exciting to cross at high water mark at certain wet times of the year. Take care, and consult your tide table before undertaking any sections which appear to be impassable, have narrow beaches or high cliffs and rocks backing them up.
After Sea Lion Gulch, at around 4.5 milesfrom the north trailhead the beach may be impassable at high tide. When you pass through the narrow spot, slippery rocks of uneven sizes slow your progress. After you pass a barn and cabin above the beach at 4.75 miles, the walking becomes easier at the base of steep bluffs and cliffs. At about 6 miles you'll arrive at Cooskie Creek in a big canyon. There are good campsites within 1/4 mile up the canyon if you don't want to camp right on the beach. Onward to Randall Creek at 8.25 miles. Narrower and more wooded than Cooskie Creek, Randall Creek also offers campsites a short walk upstream. The beach and trail area widens and flattens out as you reach the north end of Spanish Flat around 9.75 miles. A trail forks to the left to ascend Spanish Ridge at 10 miles. Somewhere around 11 miles you will reach the Spanish Creek Canyon. Like most of the creeks along the Lost Coast, you'll find several good campsites in the area. Half a mile south of Spanish Creek Canyon you see an old pioneer cabin on a high grassy plateau, overlooking the beach which is fairly wide at this point.
After Sea Lion Gulch, at around 4.5 milesfrom the north trailhead the beach may be impassable at high tide. When you pass through the narrow spot, slippery rocks of uneven sizes slow your progress. After you pass a barn and cabin above the beach at 4.75 miles, the walking becomes easier at the base of steep bluffs and cliffs. At about 6 miles you'll arrive at Cooskie Creek in a big canyon. There are good campsites within 1/4 mile up the canyon if you don't want to camp right on the beach. Onward to Randall Creek at 8.25 miles. Narrower and more wooded than Cooskie Creek, Randall Creek also offers campsites a short walk upstream. The beach and trail area widens and flattens out as you reach the north end of Spanish Flat around 9.75 miles. A trail forks to the left to ascend Spanish Ridge at 10 miles. Somewhere around 11 miles you will reach the Spanish Creek Canyon. Like most of the creeks along the Lost Coast, you'll find several good campsites in the area. Half a mile south of Spanish Creek Canyon you see an old pioneer cabin on a high grassy plateau, overlooking the beach which is fairly wide at this point.
From Spanish Flat to Big Flat is a further 7.5 miles. Between Spanish Flat and Big Flat are two more private residences; the blue-grey Etter cabin at the bottom shoreline slopes of Hadley Peak and the Smith cabin, between Oat Creek and Spanish Creek. There is a small sandy trail above the beach as the headlands narrow at the base of steep grasslands rising to 3010-foot Hadley Peak, barely a mile from the Pacific. You will reach Hadley Creek, also known as Big Creek, at around 14 miles. Dense forest in the deep, shady canyon offers lovely campsites within 1/2 mile inland of the beach. Upon reaching Big Flat you will have hiked for approximately sixteen miles. Most parties take about two days to reach this point, hiking for about eight to ten hours a day, provided that no problems are encountered with the high tide.
You will find large, heavy and solid driftwood shelters at most creeks and camping areas, and camping is free and legal. Many of these shelters have tables, benches, shelves and other useful items built into them. From Big Flat, the summit of 4087-foot King's Peak can be seen to the east, less than three miles from the Pacific Ocean. There is a very large driftwood shelter at Big Flat Creek, as with most creeks along the beach hike. A small airstrip and the biggest cabin on the entire lost coast, about 400 yards inland, compose the rest of the scenery at Big Flat, which is about a mile of very wide, flat and grassy coastline.
You will find large, heavy and solid driftwood shelters at most creeks and camping areas, and camping is free and legal. Many of these shelters have tables, benches, shelves and other useful items built into them. From Big Flat, the summit of 4087-foot King's Peak can be seen to the east, less than three miles from the Pacific Ocean. There is a very large driftwood shelter at Big Flat Creek, as with most creeks along the beach hike. A small airstrip and the biggest cabin on the entire lost coast, about 400 yards inland, compose the rest of the scenery at Big Flat, which is about a mile of very wide, flat and grassy coastline.
The Rattlesnake Ridge Trail begins at the canyon of Big Flat Creek around this point, climbing 3400 feet in over 4 miles to the Kings Crest Trail west of Kings Peak. Shortly after you leave Big Flat, you will reach the last area deemed impassable at high tide. This section begins about half a mile south of Big Flat and continues for almost four miles, to an area 1.5 miles north of Gitchell Creek. High cliffs and rock formations running right into the surf make this a tricky section. This area includes the Shipman Creek and Buck Creek areas. During high tides in winter, this area would be deadly to enter with the large waves brought on by winter storms. Shipman Creek is inaccessible from either end during very high tides. In spring and summer, with calmer seas, there is sometimes a small strip of beach which is passable at high tide. In May of 2005 I managed to pass through this section at high tide, although in retrospect, I was struck by several knee-high or higher waves which washed the sand right out from my feet and nearly toppled me into the surf, and I would not recommend anyone repeating this long section, as you must traverse right along the cliffs and would be forced to climb them should you be trapped by waves. A sneaker wave striking a hiker in this spot could have tragic consequences. The narrowest point lies just north of Shipman Creek. Shipman Creek has camps in the driftwood above its mouth. At low tide hiking through this area is not a problem. Shipman Creek is about 6 miles from Shelter Cove.
Photos byJohn Wang
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Another mile south you will arrive at Buck Creek, passing the Buck Ridge Trail, which ascends 3300 feet in 2.5 miles to Kings Crest Trail. Once you reach the end of this section, you are in the home stretch and have less than four miles to go in order to reach the south trailhead. From here on, it's all flat, wide, black sandy beach, and you can let the adrenaline disappear as you slowly hike towards the obvious rocky point just beyond the south trailhead at Black Sands Beach. In general, this is a strenuous, difficult 3 day hike, with technical tide knowledge involved, planning and coordination with tide tables , much difficult movement over talus-like, rocky beaches with high waves in some instances. There are some easy stretches of long, wide and wet sandy beach, and those areas should be used to conserve energy, move as fast as you can and cover as much easy ground as you can, quickly as possible. Finally, in this last bit, you'll see Point Delgada and the long, high Kaluna Cliffs as you approach the end near Shelter Cove. Cross Telegraph Creek, hike another 1/4 mile of black, pebbly sand beach and you will see a sign for an emergency phone and the short scramble up a sandy bluff to reach the south trailhead parking lot.
Photos byJohn Wang
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