First Ascent of Twins Tower
In a July 28, 2005 email, Blanchard also remarked to me about the first recorded ascent of Twins Tower: "One point I noted was that the first ascent of Twins Tower was made via the ridge connecting it to North Twin in 1938 by Fritz Wiessner and C Cramner. I remember being impressed by that when David Cheesmond and I traversed that same ridge in descent from the north pillar of Twins Tower in 85. Simply put Wiessner was the best climber in North America at that time."
Fritz Weissner was ahead of his time, a world-class mountaineer who pushed the limits on some of the most difficult routes in the world. The fact he chose to climb the Twins Tower is a testament to the technical difficulty and commitment level of the mountain.
Photos byAlan Kane
In a July 28, 2005 email, Blanchard also remarked to me about the first recorded ascent of Twins Tower: "One point I noted was that the first ascent of Twins Tower was made via the ridge connecting it to North Twin in 1938 by Fritz Wiessner and C Cramner. I remember being impressed by that when David Cheesmond and I traversed that same ridge in descent from the north pillar of Twins Tower in 85. Simply put Wiessner was the best climber in North America at that time."
Fritz Weissner was ahead of his time, a world-class mountaineer who pushed the limits on some of the most difficult routes in the world. The fact he chose to climb the Twins Tower is a testament to the technical difficulty and commitment level of the mountain.
Photos by
The Columbia Icefield Trailheads
The trailhead area generally used to access the Columbia Icefield is the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier. The glacier is located about midway along Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway, just north of the boundary between Banff and Jasper National Parks, 125 km (78 miles) north of Lake Louise and 106 km (66 miles) south of Jasper. Drive to theColumbia Icefield Centre and either park in the huge lot at the centre, or turn right into the little road leading to tiny Sunwapta Lake and the toe of the immense glacier. It is impossible to miss the Athabasca Glacier as it has a commanding presence at the center of a large ring of white, glaciated mountains.
Walk the short distance to the glacier, climb up the toe and rope up, then put on the skis. Head straight for the icefall several kilometers away, watching out for the deep crevasses of the Athabasca Glacier. Continue up the glacier passing the Mt. Andromeda / Mt. Athabasca massif to your left, the East Ridge of Snow Dome on your right, and gain the headwall. In particular, beware of the large menacing seracs which threaten the ramp that leads up through the icefall, closer to the Snow Dome side. On a clear day, from the headwall the summit of Mt. Columbia will be seen in the distance, a solitary white pyramid under a blue sky. Above the final steep step of the headwall, the magnitude of the Columbia Icefield becomes overwhelmingly clear. To the south a vast plain of snow slopes towards Mt. Castleguard, while to the north lie the gentle white slopes of Snow Dome, one of two hydrological apexes of North America. (The other isTriple Divide Peak in Glacier National Park, Montana). Looking to the west you will see the highest point of the divide before The Trench.
Photos byKai Larson
The trailhead area generally used to access the Columbia Icefield is the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier. The glacier is located about midway along Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway, just north of the boundary between Banff and Jasper National Parks, 125 km (78 miles) north of Lake Louise and 106 km (66 miles) south of Jasper. Drive to the
Walk the short distance to the glacier, climb up the toe and rope up, then put on the skis. Head straight for the icefall several kilometers away, watching out for the deep crevasses of the Athabasca Glacier. Continue up the glacier passing the Mt. Andromeda / Mt. Athabasca massif to your left, the East Ridge of Snow Dome on your right, and gain the headwall. In particular, beware of the large menacing seracs which threaten the ramp that leads up through the icefall, closer to the Snow Dome side. On a clear day, from the headwall the summit of Mt. Columbia will be seen in the distance, a solitary white pyramid under a blue sky. Above the final steep step of the headwall, the magnitude of the Columbia Icefield becomes overwhelmingly clear. To the south a vast plain of snow slopes towards Mt. Castleguard, while to the north lie the gentle white slopes of Snow Dome, one of two hydrological apexes of North America. (The other is
Photos by
Keep in mind that the trailhead for routes on Mt. Athabasca and Mt. Andromeda is located midway up the Snocoach road to the west of the Columbia Icefield Centre, and that it is unnecesary to access the Athabasca Glacier to reach the trailhead for routes on these mountains, except for the South Ridge of Mt. Andromeda, which involves climbing the headwall of the glacier to access the route from the icefield. Mt. Bryce and Mt. King Edward are usually approached from the Bush River road, southwest of Mt. Bryce, starting from Golden, B.C. Using this approach will cut off a lot of the approach time to Mt. Bryce, but extra time and driving must be factored in to reach this trailhead as well. If approaching from the north it may just not be worth it.
Some climbers prefer to access the icefield by the Saskatchewan Glacier. This glacier has far fewer and less dangerous crevasses than the icefall of the Athabasca Glacier, but involves a hike up and over the south end of Parker's Ridge, southeast of Mt. Athabasca. An approach to the icefield up the Saskatchewan Glacier is much longer than the Athabasca Glacier approach.
Photos by Rob H. Laird
Some climbers prefer to access the icefield by the Saskatchewan Glacier. This glacier has far fewer and less dangerous crevasses than the icefall of the Athabasca Glacier, but involves a hike up and over the south end of Parker's Ridge, southeast of Mt. Athabasca. An approach to the icefield up the Saskatchewan Glacier is much longer than the Athabasca Glacier approach.
Photos by Rob H. Laird
Climbing Season in the Columbia Icefield
The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round by those hardy enough to brave the elements, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Ski touring season is busiest from March to June, although winter conditions will often still be prevalent at times during these months. Very few ascents are made in the icefield during the winter due to brutally cold temperatures with high wind chills, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. The icefield area is a pretty lonely place in the winter, and the tourist traffic out on the Icefield Parkway slows to a trickle as well. The Columbia Icefield Centre is closed from October until May, resulting in even less human presence in this wild and beautiful area. When you find yourself out here in the "off-season", you will find that you really are very alone.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Early summer can be a very wet and stormy time of the year in the icefield. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the icefield, chilling the entire area, even in summer months. When the sun goes down and the wind comes up, it's winter again.
The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round by those hardy enough to brave the elements, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Ski touring season is busiest from March to June, although winter conditions will often still be prevalent at times during these months. Very few ascents are made in the icefield during the winter due to brutally cold temperatures with high wind chills, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. The icefield area is a pretty lonely place in the winter, and the tourist traffic out on the Icefield Parkway slows to a trickle as well. The Columbia Icefield Centre is closed from October until May, resulting in even less human presence in this wild and beautiful area. When you find yourself out here in the "off-season", you will find that you really are very alone.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Early summer can be a very wet and stormy time of the year in the icefield. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the icefield, chilling the entire area, even in summer months. When the sun goes down and the wind comes up, it's winter again.
Conditions and Weather in the Columbia Icefield
Climbing conditions
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on the mountains of the Columbia Icefield, resulting in a higher occurence of objective hazards. However, this remote area of isolated mountains still receives severe storms on any given day of the year, and climbers, skiers and backcountry adventurers in the Columbia Icefield must remain observant and vigilant at all times, as the weather in the icefield can change suddenly, without warning.
An Edmonton, Alberta company,Rescue Dynamics offers current climbing conditions , as well as weather reports and a host of other mountaineering-related services. Current climbing conditions can sometimes also be obtained by calling Park Wardens in Jasper National Park at (780) 852-6155 or (780) 852-6181 at the Sunwapta Station. Park Wardens climb often in this area during training, while performing rescue operations as well as for personal recreation, and they often have recent and accurate information with regards to climbing conditions in the Columbia Icefield area.
Photos by Rob H. Laird
Climbing conditions
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on the mountains of the Columbia Icefield, resulting in a higher occurence of objective hazards. However, this remote area of isolated mountains still receives severe storms on any given day of the year, and climbers, skiers and backcountry adventurers in the Columbia Icefield must remain observant and vigilant at all times, as the weather in the icefield can change suddenly, without warning.
An Edmonton, Alberta company,
 |
Photos by Rob H. Laird
Red Tape, Fees and Legalese
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Photo by Joel Schenk
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Photo by Joel Schenk
Royal Canadian Mountain Police
(780) 852-4848 P.O. Box 1800 600 Pyramid Lake Rd, Jasper, AB.
Jasper Hospital
(780) 852-3344 518 Robson St. Jasper, AB.
Fire & Ambulance
(780) 852-3100 Jasper Firehall, Patricia St. Jasper, AB.
Park Warden Office
(780) 852-6155 / 56 Maligne Rd. Jasper, AB. (km 2)
Sunwapta Park Warden Station
(780 )852-6181 Mile 45, Highway 93 (Icefield Parkway)
Pobotkan Creek Warden Station
(780) 852-5383 Highway 93 (Icefield Parkway)
Search and Rescue
(780) 852-3100 Jasper, AB
Emergency calls can be directed to the Jasper Park Warden at (780)
852-3100
or by calling the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) at (780)
852-4848.
Camping Near or in the Columbia Icefield
Columbia Icefield Campground
The Columbia Icefield Campground is located 1 km north of the Icefield Centre. There are enclosed cooking shelters with wood stoves and picnic tables. A pay telephone and bulletin board is at the entrance to the campground as you drive in. Outhouses are maintained regularly. There is no running water on a regular basis other than an outdoor hand-pumped fixture.
Wilcox Campground
Camping also is available at Wilcox Campground, 2.7 km south of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93. It usually opens in mid-June and is open until October. In the spring plenty of snow will still be around, sometimes blocking access to the campground. When the Icefield Campground is not plowed out, Wilcox Creek campground, or even Jonas Creek Campground, located well north of the Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park may be options, although the drive is significantly longer if accessing Mt. Athabasca or Mt. Andromeda via the Icefield Centre / SnoCoach road.
Sites in both campgrounds cost $18 - $20 per night. You must self-register. There are bivy sites on the mountain: pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches or slides. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking on Mt. Athabasca require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Icefield Centre for $6 a night. Hiking, trekking, scrambling and backpacking information in the Canadian Rockies is available atThe Canadian Rockies.com . There is a backpacking information page available, just click on this link: Backpacking Jasper National Park.
Camping in the Icefield
To camp right in the icefield itself, pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches, blizzards, and especially wind. Dig in your tent; if left sitting on the icefield surface it'll be gone before long. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking in the Columbia Icefield require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Columbia Icefield Centre for $6 a night. If camping and bivouacking in any part of the Columbia Icefield or Mt. Columbia, bring a shovel. The weather could have you digging your tent out every hour. Wands to mark the route would be considered prudent as well, as tracks don't last for long in this area.
Photos byMack Muir
Columbia Icefield Campground
The Columbia Icefield Campground is located 1 km north of the Icefield Centre. There are enclosed cooking shelters with wood stoves and picnic tables. A pay telephone and bulletin board is at the entrance to the campground as you drive in. Outhouses are maintained regularly. There is no running water on a regular basis other than an outdoor hand-pumped fixture.
Wilcox Campground
Camping also is available at Wilcox Campground, 2.7 km south of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93. It usually opens in mid-June and is open until October. In the spring plenty of snow will still be around, sometimes blocking access to the campground. When the Icefield Campground is not plowed out, Wilcox Creek campground, or even Jonas Creek Campground, located well north of the Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park may be options, although the drive is significantly longer if accessing Mt. Athabasca or Mt. Andromeda via the Icefield Centre / SnoCoach road.
Sites in both campgrounds cost $18 - $20 per night. You must self-register. There are bivy sites on the mountain: pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches or slides. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking on Mt. Athabasca require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Icefield Centre for $6 a night. Hiking, trekking, scrambling and backpacking information in the Canadian Rockies is available at
Camping in the Icefield
To camp right in the icefield itself, pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches, blizzards, and especially wind. Dig in your tent; if left sitting on the icefield surface it'll be gone before long. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking in the Columbia Icefield require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Columbia Icefield Centre for $6 a night. If camping and bivouacking in any part of the Columbia Icefield or Mt. Columbia, bring a shovel. The weather could have you digging your tent out every hour. Wands to mark the route would be considered prudent as well, as tracks don't last for long in this area.
Photos by
Hostels
For those who don't want to camp or bivouac, there is an excellent option to distant and expensive mountain park hotels.Hostelling International runs a chain of excellent, low-cost hostels which provide accomodations at several convenient locations close to popular climbing and touring sites. Five hostels, four open year-round, are located near the icefield. These hostels are clean, well-kept and managed by full-time custodians. The hostels are extremely economical in comparison to the costs of mountain park resorts and area hotels, as well as being surrounded by some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in the world.
Check-in at hostels starts at 3:00 p.m. and check-out is by 10:00 a.m. the next morning. Self-cook kitchens are the rule, featuring gas and wood stoves, outdoor water pumps (well water) and cleaning up after yourself is a rule as well. The facilities range in description from "rustic", with bunkhouse-style sleeping quarters, to "very comfortable", with private family rooms (Lake Louise). Hostels close to Mt. Athabasca are located at Athabasca Falls, Beauty Creek, Hilda Creek and the town of Jasper. Reservations should be made well in advance. Payment by cash or credit card (Visa) is accepted, upon checking in.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
For those who don't want to camp or bivouac, there is an excellent option to distant and expensive mountain park hotels.
Check-in at hostels starts at 3:00 p.m. and check-out is by 10:00 a.m. the next morning. Self-cook kitchens are the rule, featuring gas and wood stoves, outdoor water pumps (well water) and cleaning up after yourself is a rule as well. The facilities range in description from "rustic", with bunkhouse-style sleeping quarters, to "very comfortable", with private family rooms (Lake Louise). Hostels close to Mt. Athabasca are located at Athabasca Falls, Beauty Creek, Hilda Creek and the town of Jasper. Reservations should be made well in advance. Payment by cash or credit card (Visa) is accepted, upon checking in.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
Hazard Warning for the Columbia Icefield
Accidents
Before attempting to approach the Columbia Icefield, its mountains, or to climb any mountains in the icefield, professional training in crevasse rescue should be considered mandatory. A history of mountaineering accidents in the Canadian Rockies, and details of all accidents are available by clicking this link from theAlpine Club of Canada . Mountain and glacier safety training is available through the Alpine Club of Canada, or a number of licensed guide services throughout the area. Solo or unroped skiing or climbing on any part of the approach to the icefield, or on any glaciated mountains within the icefield is not recommended; fatalities and disappearances have been the result of unroped skiing and climbing in this area in the past. Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Getting lost in this area is a real possibility, given that one day in three is statistically clear. Whiteouts, high winds, storms and generally uncooperative weather have ended many attempts to climb the mountains of the Columbia Icefield. Solid navigation skills are a must, and to enter this area without a good topographical map, compass and altimeter and the skills to use them properly would be foolhardy. A GPS would be good to have along as well as the aforementioned equipment. Set plenty of waypoints and check them often, marking them with wands as you progress.
Instruction and Guiding
The Alpine Club'sEdmonton Section and Calgary Section both conduct an excellent mountaineering orientation program, which prepares novices for their initiation to mountaineering, and also features three days of practical instruction on the lower slopes of nearby Mt. Athabasca, Parker's Ridge, and Hidden Valley. Instruction is done by top-notch volunteer members with many years of experience. The program includes theory and practical training in crevasse and rock rescue, subjective and objective hazards, mountain conditions and weather, clothing, ropework, use of technical equipment and personal gear, mountain safety and other relevant subjects. Avalanche awareness courses are available, as well as both summer and winter trips for members. Avalanche.org has an excellent and comprehensive avalanche report and alert system. In addition, the Canadian Avalanche Association is an excellent source of current avalanche information.
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides can provide information regarding guide services for those who wish to retain a guide. Several guide services, such asYamnuska Mountaineering, Inc. and Rescue Dynamics also provide a three-day on-site mountaineering orientation program, highlighted with a guided ascent of either the North Glacier route or the AA Col route on Mt. Athabasca.
Photos byAlan Kane
Accidents
Before attempting to approach the Columbia Icefield, its mountains, or to climb any mountains in the icefield, professional training in crevasse rescue should be considered mandatory. A history of mountaineering accidents in the Canadian Rockies, and details of all accidents are available by clicking this link from the
Getting lost in this area is a real possibility, given that one day in three is statistically clear. Whiteouts, high winds, storms and generally uncooperative weather have ended many attempts to climb the mountains of the Columbia Icefield. Solid navigation skills are a must, and to enter this area without a good topographical map, compass and altimeter and the skills to use them properly would be foolhardy. A GPS would be good to have along as well as the aforementioned equipment. Set plenty of waypoints and check them often, marking them with wands as you progress.
Instruction and Guiding
The Alpine Club's
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides can provide information regarding guide services for those who wish to retain a guide. Several guide services, such as
Photos by
