Climbing Season in the Columbia Icefield
The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Very few ascents are made on Snow Dome or any other Columbia Icefield peaks in winter due to brutally cold temperatures, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. It's a pretty lonely place in the winter, and as a result the rate of traffic on the highway slows to a trickle as well. The Columbia Icefield Centre is closed from October until May, resulting in even less human presence in this wild and beautiful area.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Winter conditions and spring avalanches can continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the Athabasca Glacier, chilling the entire area, even in summer months. The slopes of Snow Dome are well known for cold, windy conditions as a result of exposure to westerly winds coming off of the Columbia Icefield.
Photo by Dow Williams
The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Very few ascents are made on Snow Dome or any other Columbia Icefield peaks in winter due to brutally cold temperatures, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. It's a pretty lonely place in the winter, and as a result the rate of traffic on the highway slows to a trickle as well. The Columbia Icefield Centre is closed from October until May, resulting in even less human presence in this wild and beautiful area.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Winter conditions and spring avalanches can continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the Athabasca Glacier, chilling the entire area, even in summer months. The slopes of Snow Dome are well known for cold, windy conditions as a result of exposure to westerly winds coming off of the Columbia Icefield.
Mountain Conditions and Weather in the Columbia Icefield
Climbing conditions
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the glaciers and routes of the Columbia Icefield. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands on the peaks of the icefield.
Rescue Dynamics offers current climbing conditions , as well as weather reports and a host of other mountaineering related services. Current climbing conditions can sometimes also be obtained by calling Park Wardens in Jasper National Park at (780) 852-6155 or (780) 852-6181 at the Sunwapta Station. Park Wardens climb often in this area during training, while performing rescue operations as well as for personal recreation, and they often have recent and accurate information with regards to climbing conditions in the Columbia Icefield area.
Climbing conditions
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the glaciers and routes of the Columbia Icefield. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands on the peaks of the icefield.
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Red Tape, Fees and Legalese in Jasper National Park
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Royal Canadian Mountain Police (780) 852-4848.
P.O. Box 1800 600 Pyramid Lake Road, Jasper, AB.
Jasper Hospital (780) 852-3344
518 Robson St. Jasper, AB.
Fire & Ambulance (780) 852-3100
Jasper Firehall, Patricia St. Jasper, AB.
Park Warden Office (780) 852-6155 / 56
Maligne Rd. Jasper, AB. (km 2)
Sunwapta Park Warden Station (780 )852-6181
Mile 45, Highway 93 (Icefield Parkway)
Pobotkan Creek Warden Station (780) 852-5383
Highway 93 (Icefield Parkway)
Search and Rescue (780) 852-3100
Emergency calls can be directed to the Jasper Park
Warden at (780) 852-3100
or by calling the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP)
at (780) 852-4848
Camping and Backpacking in Jasper National Park
Columbia Icefield Campground
The Columbia Icefield Campground is located 1 km north of the Icefield Centre. There are enclosed cooking shelters with wood stoves and picnic tables. A pay telephone and bulletin board is at the entrance to the campground as you drive in. Outhouses are maintained regularly. There is no running water on a regular basis other than an outdoor hand-pumped fixture.
Wilcox Campground
Camping also is available at Wilcox Campground, 2.7 km south of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93. It usually opens in mid-June and is open until October. In the spring plenty of snow will still be around, sometimes blocking access to the campground. When the Icefield Campground is not plowed out, Wilcox Creek campground, or even Jonas Creek Campground, located well north of the Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park may be options, although the drive is significantly longer if accessing Mt. Athabasca or Mt. Andromeda via the Icefield Centre / SnoCoach road.
Sites in both campgrounds cost $18 - $20 per night. You must self-register. There are bivy sites on the mountain: pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches or slides. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking on Mt. Athabasca require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Icefield Centre for $6 a night. Hiking, trekking, scrambling and backpacking information in the Canadian Rockies is available atThe Canadian Rockies.com . There is a backpacking information page available, just click on this link: Backpacking Jasper National Park.
Columbia Icefield Campground
The Columbia Icefield Campground is located 1 km north of the Icefield Centre. There are enclosed cooking shelters with wood stoves and picnic tables. A pay telephone and bulletin board is at the entrance to the campground as you drive in. Outhouses are maintained regularly. There is no running water on a regular basis other than an outdoor hand-pumped fixture.
Wilcox Campground
Camping also is available at Wilcox Campground, 2.7 km south of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93. It usually opens in mid-June and is open until October. In the spring plenty of snow will still be around, sometimes blocking access to the campground. When the Icefield Campground is not plowed out, Wilcox Creek campground, or even Jonas Creek Campground, located well north of the Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park may be options, although the drive is significantly longer if accessing Mt. Athabasca or Mt. Andromeda via the Icefield Centre / SnoCoach road.
Sites in both campgrounds cost $18 - $20 per night. You must self-register. There are bivy sites on the mountain: pick a spot which will be safe from avalanches or slides. Technically, mountaineers bivouacking on Mt. Athabasca require a backcountry permit, available from Park Wardens at the Ranger Stations or the Icefield Centre for $6 a night. Hiking, trekking, scrambling and backpacking information in the Canadian Rockies is available at
Hostels
For those who don't want to camp or bivouac, there is an excellent option to distant and expensive mountain park hotels.Hostelling International runs a chain of excellent, low-cost hostels which provide accomodations at several convenient locations close to popular climbing and touring sites. Five hostels, four open year-round, are located near the icefield. These hostels are clean, well-kept and managed by full-time custodians. The hostels are extremely economical in comparison to the costs of mountain park resorts and area hotels, as well as being surrounded by some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in the world.
Check-in at hostels starts at 3:00 p.m. and check-out is by 10:00 a.m. the next morning. Self-cook kitchens are the rule, featuring gas and wood stoves, outdoor water pumps (well water) and cleaning up after yourself is a rule as well. The facilities range in description from "rustic", with bunkhouse-style sleeping quarters, to "very comfortable", with private family rooms (Lake Louise). Hostels close to Mt. Athabasca are located at Athabasca Falls, Beauty Creek, Hilda Creek and the town of Jasper. Reservations should be made well in advance. Payment by cash or credit card (Visa) is accepted, upon checking in.
For those who don't want to camp or bivouac, there is an excellent option to distant and expensive mountain park hotels.
Check-in at hostels starts at 3:00 p.m. and check-out is by 10:00 a.m. the next morning. Self-cook kitchens are the rule, featuring gas and wood stoves, outdoor water pumps (well water) and cleaning up after yourself is a rule as well. The facilities range in description from "rustic", with bunkhouse-style sleeping quarters, to "very comfortable", with private family rooms (Lake Louise). Hostels close to Mt. Athabasca are located at Athabasca Falls, Beauty Creek, Hilda Creek and the town of Jasper. Reservations should be made well in advance. Payment by cash or credit card (Visa) is accepted, upon checking in.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
Before attempting any route on Snow Dome, professional training in crevasse rescue should be considered mandatory. A history of mountaineering accidents on Snow Dome, and details of all accidents are available by clicking this link from theAlpine Club of Canada . Training is available through the Alpine Club of Canada, or a number of licensed guide services throughout the area. Solo or unroped climbing on Snow Dome is not recommended; fatalities and disappearances have been the result of unroped climbing on this mountain in the past. The snowy undulating top of this broad plateau holds a lot of big holes, and several climbers and skiers have died or suffered injuries in accidents here. Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
The Alpine Club'sEdmonton Section and Calgary Section both conduct an excellent mountaineering orientation program, which prepares novices for their initiation to mountaineering, and also features three days of practical instruction on the lower slopes of neighboring Mt. Athabasca, Parker's Ridge, and Hidden Valley. Instruction is done by top-notch volunteer members with many years of experience. The program includes theory and practical training in crevasse and rock rescue, subjective and objective hazards, mountain conditions and weather, clothing, ropework, use of technical equipment and personal gear, mountain safety and other relevant subjects. Avalanche awareness courses are available, as well as both summer and winter trips for members. Avalanche reports can be obtained as well. In addition, the Canadian Avalanche Association is an excellent source of current avalanche information.
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides can provide information regarding guide services for those who wish to retain a guide. Several guide services, such asYamnuska Mountaineering, Inc. , also provide a three-day on-site mountaineering orientation program, highlighted with a guided ascent of either the North Glacier or AA Col routes on nearby Mt. Athabasca.
Before attempting any route on Snow Dome, professional training in crevasse rescue should be considered mandatory. A history of mountaineering accidents on Snow Dome, and details of all accidents are available by clicking this link from the
The Alpine Club's
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides can provide information regarding guide services for those who wish to retain a guide. Several guide services, such as
The Columbia Icefield Centre
Tourism
TheColumbia Icefield Centre , located on the Icefield Parkway at the base of Mt. Andromeda and Mt. Athabasca, was built in 1996 to replace the much smaller center previously found there. There is a small coffee shop stocked with quick snacks, and a dining lounge with more sophisticated dining, for those who feel a culinary treat is in order. Both are open only during regular business hours. Modern washrooms provide the last civilized toilets many climbers will see for days. There are ATM machines and tourist shops with souvenirs of the Columbia Icefield and the Rocky Mountains. The Columbia Icefield Chalet on the top floor of the Icefield Centre is a modern, if expensive hotel for those who don't want to camp, bivy or stay in nearby hostels.
On the main floor near the entrance is an Interpretive Center with videos and models of the Icefield, featuring the history of the area's glaciology, geology, and early mountaineering exploration and history. A huge fiberglass relief model of the Icefield, mountains and glaciers is fascinating and helps greatly in appreciating the topography and sheer size of the Columbia Icefield. There is plenty of helpfulColumbia Icefield information available at the Icefield Centre and on their various web pages, featuring movie clips and slide shows from the Athabasca Glacier, and information regarding the Icefield Parkway. A huge parking area ensures plenty of free parking for tourists, travellers, climbers and other backcountry users who happen to stop at the Icefield Centre. There are several pay phones in the parking area, available for use even during the months when the centre is closed.
Snocoach glacier tours onto the Athabasca Glacier can be arranged at the Icefield Centre. Privately led hikes are also available onto the glacier, under the supervision of local licensed guides. Veteran climber and ACC member Marcus Kellerhals leads glacier ski tours onto the Athabasca Glacier. Telescopes are mounted out on the terrace, and can be used to examine the various mountains in the area at close range. You can stand at one of the scopes, have a relaxing beverage and watch the intrepid adventures of climbers working their way up the North Face of Mt. Athabasca, or the Skyladder on Mt. Andromeda. It is not at all unusual for climbers near the Athabasca Glacier, the Icefield Centre or the Snocoach road to be the subject of photographs by hordes of awed tourists visiting the icefield for the first time. (So remember, if you are ever climbing one of the peaks close by....Smile! You're a tourist attraction!)
Photo by Brewster Transportation
Tourism
The
On the main floor near the entrance is an Interpretive Center with videos and models of the Icefield, featuring the history of the area's glaciology, geology, and early mountaineering exploration and history. A huge fiberglass relief model of the Icefield, mountains and glaciers is fascinating and helps greatly in appreciating the topography and sheer size of the Columbia Icefield. There is plenty of helpful
