Maligne Canyon - Introduction
Maligne Canyon is one of the most spectacular gorges in the Canadian Rockies. Its vertical limestone walls plunge to depths of over 50 metres(165 ft.). An interpretive trail follows the canyon rim from the picnic area across six bridges, where you can catch the spray and mist rising from the Maligne River as it thunders through the canyon during the summer. Downstream between the Fifth and Sixth bridges, are the Rock Gardens and the Boulder Gardens, two of Jasper's nicest little cragging areas. In the winter, try your hand at a guided Canyon Tour across the floor of the frozen canyon. It is hard to say whether this beautiful canyon is more spectacular during winter or summer The Tea House is open from March to early November.
Maligne Canyon is one of the most spectacular gorges in the Canadian Rockies. Its vertical limestone walls plunge to depths of over 50 metres(165 ft.). An interpretive trail follows the canyon rim from the picnic area across six bridges, where you can catch the spray and mist rising from the Maligne River as it thunders through the canyon during the summer. Downstream between the Fifth and Sixth bridges, are the Rock Gardens and the Boulder Gardens, two of Jasper's nicest little cragging areas. In the winter, try your hand at a guided Canyon Tour across the floor of the frozen canyon. It is hard to say whether this beautiful canyon is more spectacular during winter or summer The Tea House is open from March to early November.
Approach to Maligne Canyon
The turnoff to the Maligne Lake Road is approximately 3 miles east of Jasper on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail. Take the turnoff, and you will immediately see a small bridge crossing the river, leading to a T-intersection. Take the left turn at the T-intersection (the right turn will take you to the Jasper Park Lodge) and drive for 3.2 kilometers, then turn left into a short approach road that leads to the Maligne Canyon parking lot and Teahouse.
Go to the far end of the parking lot (it's big - the size of a football field) and park. The canyon trail begins to the left side of the parking lot, next to an information station. You will see a set of concrete stairs with handrails leading down towards the canyon on its right side. The trail is very well marked, with handrails in place for its entire length to keep pedestrians from falling into the canyon. The trail crosses the canyon in five places on bridged crossings.
The trail is extremely icy in winter; great care must be taken and it is advisable to wear crampons on this approach, as it is possible to slip down any of several sets of concrete stairs, or even fall into the canyon itself in the case of a short slide off the trail. The handrails do not provide complete protection. There are six bridges along the trail; the fifth ends near a small parking lot to the west of the canyon. Continue past the fifth bridge, which is perhaps a thirty minute walk from the trailhead.
To your right side you will see a sloped area of about thirty-five degrees, which can give you access to the canyon bottom. It is usually heavily snowed in on this access and can be walked down fairly easily. If not, simply walk further downstream as the canyon starts to lose elevation at this point. Once on the small frozen river at the canyon bottom, turn right and head back upstream a short distance to the climbs as you marvel at the sight of the canyon sides, carved out into bizarre shapes by water over millions of years, through the limestone of the Palliser Formation.
The turnoff to the Maligne Lake Road is approximately 3 miles east of Jasper on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail. Take the turnoff, and you will immediately see a small bridge crossing the river, leading to a T-intersection. Take the left turn at the T-intersection (the right turn will take you to the Jasper Park Lodge) and drive for 3.2 kilometers, then turn left into a short approach road that leads to the Maligne Canyon parking lot and Teahouse.
Go to the far end of the parking lot (it's big - the size of a football field) and park. The canyon trail begins to the left side of the parking lot, next to an information station. You will see a set of concrete stairs with handrails leading down towards the canyon on its right side. The trail is very well marked, with handrails in place for its entire length to keep pedestrians from falling into the canyon. The trail crosses the canyon in five places on bridged crossings.
The trail is extremely icy in winter; great care must be taken and it is advisable to wear crampons on this approach, as it is possible to slip down any of several sets of concrete stairs, or even fall into the canyon itself in the case of a short slide off the trail. The handrails do not provide complete protection. There are six bridges along the trail; the fifth ends near a small parking lot to the west of the canyon. Continue past the fifth bridge, which is perhaps a thirty minute walk from the trailhead.
To your right side you will see a sloped area of about thirty-five degrees, which can give you access to the canyon bottom. It is usually heavily snowed in on this access and can be walked down fairly easily. If not, simply walk further downstream as the canyon starts to lose elevation at this point. Once on the small frozen river at the canyon bottom, turn right and head back upstream a short distance to the climbs as you marvel at the sight of the canyon sides, carved out into bizarre shapes by water over millions of years, through the limestone of the Palliser Formation.
Ice Climbs at Maligne Canyon
There are five established ice routes in Maligne Canyon, and the possibilities of new play areas and lines are numerable, depending on present conditions. All routes can be lead or toproped, using a 50 or 60 m rope. There are plenty of strong trees on the top edge of the canyon for rappelling into the canyon, or to use as toprope belay anchors. The ice routes are as follows:
There are five established ice routes in Maligne Canyon, and the possibilities of new play areas and lines are numerable, depending on present conditions. All routes can be lead or toproped, using a 50 or 60 m rope. There are plenty of strong trees on the top edge of the canyon for rappelling into the canyon, or to use as toprope belay anchors. The ice routes are as follows:
- Original Route WI 3 - This route follows the canyon bottom and is mainly flat with five short ice steps leading upstream, the longest being about 35 m in length. These steps can mainly be climbed with ice tools and crampons in very easy fashion and generally cannot be walked up.
- Fall of Knight 25 m, WI 2 - Named after an unfortunate climber who perished on the route. There are a couple of very short (six foot) sections of vertical ice, tapering off to around 50 degrees for most of the climb.
- Solo Out 15 m, WI 2 - There are a few short lines of ice climbing on a sheet of ice near the Fall of Knight route.
- The Queen 35 m, WI 4 - This beautiful curtain is the main and hardest route in the canyon. It is located just upstream of the fourth bridge. It is a good lead route and can be toproped using two 50 m ropes. It is a vertical route with well-featured ice, which is usually well hacked up from all of the ascents made on it.
- The Last Wall 30 m, WI 2 - An easy and fun curtain of well-featured ice with several lines and possiblities, with just enough steep spots to keep it interesting. This is the final route at the far end of the canyon, located close to and just a little downstream of the Queen. It's a good warmup for The Queen, which is the main objective for ice climbers in the canyon, and is a good place to wait if others are on The Queen nearby.
Mixed Climbs at Maligne Canyon
There are several mixed routes in Maligne Canyon, indicated by scars on the canyon walls from climbers dry-tooling, and innocuous bolted anchors found in various locations near icy walls, overhangs and icicles. The possibilities for mixed ascents here are endless, and may change from year to year. Two of the more prominent ones are:
There are several mixed routes in Maligne Canyon, indicated by scars on the canyon walls from climbers dry-tooling, and innocuous bolted anchors found in various locations near icy walls, overhangs and icicles. The possibilities for mixed ascents here are endless, and may change from year to year. Two of the more prominent ones are:
- Break It, Ya Buy It - 28 m, M8 WI 5 - The first ascent of this burly mixed route was made by Gary Boyd and Dana Ruddy. It begins directly to the left of the ice climb The Queen, climbing vertical canyon sides for about 15 m, using seven bolts as protection. At this point you gain a hanging curtain of ice. Continue up the ice to the top of the canyon, if possible. The difficulty of the climb is contingent on the length of the curtain - The crux is dry tooling up rock above the curtain, but may be avoided if the curtain is well-formed.
- Fools Gold - 28 m, M6+ WI 4+ - The first ascent of this mixed route was made by Sean Elliot and Dana Ruddy. This is a moderate addition to the many mixed climbs in Maligne Canyon, many of which are undocumented. Fools' Gold begins 10 m to the right of the ice climb The Queen. Begin under a small roof by either stick clipping the first bolt or muscle your way up by hooking up the bouldering test on the right hand wall. Climb steep rock and thin ice to a ledge. Clip two more bolts before climbing onto a short steep pillar to the top of the canyon. You could possibly use a long sling to sling the pillar.
Essential Gear
A helmet is mandatory. Falling ice is tyical here, especially on the steeper routes. Crampons, two ice tools, two ropes of a minimum 50 m length, up to six ice screws, some slings and a few quickdraws are about all it takes to climb the hardest routes in Maligne Canyon.
A helmet is mandatory. Falling ice is tyical here, especially on the steeper routes. Crampons, two ice tools, two ropes of a minimum 50 m length, up to six ice screws, some slings and a few quickdraws are about all it takes to climb the hardest routes in Maligne Canyon.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
Be advised that this beautiful canyon is also a place with many hazards and dangerous places, which must be noted. Although up to 45 m in depth in places, there are spots where it is only six feet wide at the canyon bottom, leaving little room for shelter in the case of an occurence of the two biggest hazards here; rockfall and icefall. Rockfall and icefall occur at all points in Maligne Canyon, and large trees and heavy branches occasionally drop into the gorge as well.
Large suspended layers of ice often exist on the canyon bottom Take great care - these horizontal sections can consist of very thick, heavy plates of ice suspended up to ten feet above the canyon bottom, caused by dropping water levels in the river. A collapse of these plates is possible while traversing them, and could result in severe injuries or a fatality. Note that some years, the river can be open at times in places, and these sections should be avoided as they present a great danger to unwary hikers, climbers or sightseers.
Sightseers have been killed falling into the canyon from the upper trail due to slips caused by unsuitable footwear and sloping ice ledges. This occurence was tragically repeated as recently as winter of 2005. However, those who remain on the trail and refrain from climbing over the handrails for a better look will generally stay safe. Minor slips and falls on the trail and its staircases are possible in icy conditions.
Unless you are an experienced and well-equipped climber preparing to rappel into the canyon, stay on the trail, and do not climb over the handrails, which are there for your safety. For maximum safety, a helmet should be worn at all times when in the canyon and crampons should be worn as soon as leaving the parking lot.
Ice climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk
Be advised that this beautiful canyon is also a place with many hazards and dangerous places, which must be noted. Although up to 45 m in depth in places, there are spots where it is only six feet wide at the canyon bottom, leaving little room for shelter in the case of an occurence of the two biggest hazards here; rockfall and icefall. Rockfall and icefall occur at all points in Maligne Canyon, and large trees and heavy branches occasionally drop into the gorge as well.
Large suspended layers of ice often exist on the canyon bottom Take great care - these horizontal sections can consist of very thick, heavy plates of ice suspended up to ten feet above the canyon bottom, caused by dropping water levels in the river. A collapse of these plates is possible while traversing them, and could result in severe injuries or a fatality. Note that some years, the river can be open at times in places, and these sections should be avoided as they present a great danger to unwary hikers, climbers or sightseers.
Sightseers have been killed falling into the canyon from the upper trail due to slips caused by unsuitable footwear and sloping ice ledges. This occurence was tragically repeated as recently as winter of 2005. However, those who remain on the trail and refrain from climbing over the handrails for a better look will generally stay safe. Minor slips and falls on the trail and its staircases are possible in icy conditions.
Unless you are an experienced and well-equipped climber preparing to rappel into the canyon, stay on the trail, and do not climb over the handrails, which are there for your safety. For maximum safety, a helmet should be worn at all times when in the canyon and crampons should be worn as soon as leaving the parking lot.
Ice climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk
Maligne Canyon - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the Maligne Canyon route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
The information contained on the Maligne Canyon route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at