Hourglass - Overview
The Hourglass, considered by some to be a more technical variation of the regular North Face route, is found to the right of the North Face. The rock crux is longer and more difficult than the crux on the regular North Face route, and the Hourglass can be threatened by seracs on the east side of the Silverhorn. In low-snowfall years the route can be gone early. There is a greater risk of rockfall and icefall on this route than on the regular North Face route, and the crux is more technical than that of the North Face. The area above the crux is often unstable, as the debris at the bottom of the route will attest. The route is climbed far less often than the regular North Face.
Photo by Dow Williams
The Hourglass, considered by some to be a more technical variation of the regular North Face route, is found to the right of the North Face. The rock crux is longer and more difficult than the crux on the regular North Face route, and the Hourglass can be threatened by seracs on the east side of the Silverhorn. In low-snowfall years the route can be gone early. There is a greater risk of rockfall and icefall on this route than on the regular North Face route, and the crux is more technical than that of the North Face. The area above the crux is often unstable, as the debris at the bottom of the route will attest. The route is climbed far less often than the regular North Face.
Hourglass - Approach
The approach for the Hourglass route is the same as that of the North Face. The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from theColumbia Icefield Centre , which is located 103 kilometers south of Jasper, or 189 kilometers north of Banff, Alberta, in the Columbia Icefield .
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
The approach for the Hourglass route is the same as that of the North Face. The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from the
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
From the trailhead begin hiking up an obvious packed scree trail which follows the crest of the moraines right to a small, flat false glacier. Most parties rope up here. Access the real glacier just to the left of this spot. Hike up the glacier's sustained 30-35 degree slopes until you reach a slightly steeper rise with a large crevasse near the bottom and a col at the top. Here you will notice a large dark rock formation to your left, and the bottom of the Silverhorn massif to the right. Depending on your party's rate of travel, it could take a couple of hours to reach this spot from the trailhead. You will proceed straight up and over the col at this point. A small-looking but actually very large exposed rock will be noticeable to your right as you pass the bottom of the Silverhorn route.
As you climb over the slight col here and keep going forward around the Silverhorn you will see the large amphitheater of the North Face ahead of you, just slightly off to the right. You will be at approximately 10,000 feet at this point. Head over to the far right end of the face, and as you approach the bergeschrund you will be able to look up and see the narrow gap between the far right end of the high rock band and the bulging seracs of the Silverhorn massif on the right side of the rock band. That narrow gap is the crux of the Hourglass route. As you make your way down into the amphitheater and the obvious staging area for the climb itself, you will gradually descend about a hundred meters of elevation by the time you reach the bergeschrund of the North Face. In this area you'll see the remnants of many fallen seracs; some of them quite large.
Photo by Mack Muir
As you climb over the slight col here and keep going forward around the Silverhorn you will see the large amphitheater of the North Face ahead of you, just slightly off to the right. You will be at approximately 10,000 feet at this point. Head over to the far right end of the face, and as you approach the bergeschrund you will be able to look up and see the narrow gap between the far right end of the high rock band and the bulging seracs of the Silverhorn massif on the right side of the rock band. That narrow gap is the crux of the Hourglass route. As you make your way down into the amphitheater and the obvious staging area for the climb itself, you will gradually descend about a hundred meters of elevation by the time you reach the bergeschrund of the North Face. In this area you'll see the remnants of many fallen seracs; some of them quite large.
Hourglass - Route Description
Cross the bergeschrund, which is often filled with debris from sluffing and avalanches. It may be thinly bridged or open later in the season, and easy to slip into, considering the angle of the face. Early in the season you may be kicking steps up snow for the first couple of pitches. Climb the first five pitches of 45 to 50 degree alpine ice towards the obvious opening between the rock formations on the left and the menacing icy seracs to the right, which form the eastern edge of the Silverhorn. Be aware that rockfall can be a problem here, and that some pretty big chunks of ice fall down this route on occasion, as they calf off of the Silverhorn and pile up at the bottom right end of the face. Starting very early will help to avoid these hazards.
The sixth pitch will have you alongside the rock band to your left and heading up into a rapidly-narrowing channel, aptly named the Hourglass. Pitch seven will take you through the crux; the obstacle formed by the seracs, which are often so close to the rock band that stemming moves will be required to progress through this narrow chimney. Hopefully you will have ice under you at this point, as some years this route melts out early and the route is basically gone. Pitch six and seven are steeper and more technical than the regular North Face route.
Once through the crux, climb the often-unstable ice to the final snowfield, traversing to the left as you go, to avoid the overhanging ice and possible cornice of the transition area between the Silverhorn and the final summit ridge. Be aware that early in the season the snowfield can be windloaded and prone to avalanche. Once on the summit ridge, a gentle rise will lead you to the summit in an easy ten-minute walk.
Right photo by Unknown
Cross the bergeschrund, which is often filled with debris from sluffing and avalanches. It may be thinly bridged or open later in the season, and easy to slip into, considering the angle of the face. Early in the season you may be kicking steps up snow for the first couple of pitches. Climb the first five pitches of 45 to 50 degree alpine ice towards the obvious opening between the rock formations on the left and the menacing icy seracs to the right, which form the eastern edge of the Silverhorn. Be aware that rockfall can be a problem here, and that some pretty big chunks of ice fall down this route on occasion, as they calf off of the Silverhorn and pile up at the bottom right end of the face. Starting very early will help to avoid these hazards.
The sixth pitch will have you alongside the rock band to your left and heading up into a rapidly-narrowing channel, aptly named the Hourglass. Pitch seven will take you through the crux; the obstacle formed by the seracs, which are often so close to the rock band that stemming moves will be required to progress through this narrow chimney. Hopefully you will have ice under you at this point, as some years this route melts out early and the route is basically gone. Pitch six and seven are steeper and more technical than the regular North Face route.
Once through the crux, climb the often-unstable ice to the final snowfield, traversing to the left as you go, to avoid the overhanging ice and possible cornice of the transition area between the Silverhorn and the final summit ridge. Be aware that early in the season the snowfield can be windloaded and prone to avalanche. Once on the summit ridge, a gentle rise will lead you to the summit in an easy ten-minute walk.
Right photo by Unknown
Essential Gear
Two sixty meter double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappell was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
Standard glacier travel gear would be required to reach the route from the trailhead. A rack of six to ten ice screws, slings, a few cams, tricams and nuts to protect the route in the rock should be taken along. A helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points work better on steeper technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm belay jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is a cold face with little sunlight, and often is exposed to blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be good to wear while on the face, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Two sixty meter double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappell was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
Standard glacier travel gear would be required to reach the route from the trailhead. A rack of six to ten ice screws, slings, a few cams, tricams and nuts to protect the route in the rock should be taken along. A helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points work better on steeper technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm belay jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is a cold face with little sunlight, and often is exposed to blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be good to wear while on the face, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. The Hourglass route in particular can be rendered much more hazardous and technical by early meltoff.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the North Face climb.
An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this face; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice from parties high on the face can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the face. Dropped gear and ice tools can make this fun ascent treacherous as well. Never climb directly below another party on this face.
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. The Hourglass route in particular can be rendered much more hazardous and technical by early meltoff.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the North Face climb.
An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this face; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice from parties high on the face can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the face. Dropped gear and ice tools can make this fun ascent treacherous as well. Never climb directly below another party on this face.
The routes illustrated above in Sean Dougherty's book, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" are, from left to right: North Ridge, North Face, Hourglass, Silverhorn and the North Glacier route. The Snocoach road and trailhead are seen near the bottom of the photo.
Hourglass - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the Hourglass route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the Hourglass route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.