North Face - Overview
Mt. Athabasca's North Face, grade III, 5.4, features slopes of up to 50-60 degrees, a short rocky crux between the ice wall and the final steep snowfield, and is a very popular route, often having two or three parties working their way up it at the same time. Icefall can be serious as a result. This line is shaded from sunlight for all but the first daylight hour of the morning and the final hour or so of sunset in the evening. Even then, only the upper section receives any sunlight at all. As a result, the North Face is a cold route, especially in windy conditions, when spindrift combined with exposure to high winds can result in frostbite for poorly-prepared climbers, even during warm summer months.
This big alpine ice face was one of the first big ice walls to be climbed in Canada. The first ascent was made by D. Soper and D. Rau in 1971. It is a classic ice route in North American mountaineering and ice climbing history, and is often the route of choice for novice ice climbers as a first ascent. The entire route can be climbed in seven or eight 60 meter pitches, depending on where you set up your belays.
Photo by Mack Muir
Mt. Athabasca's North Face, grade III, 5.4, features slopes of up to 50-60 degrees, a short rocky crux between the ice wall and the final steep snowfield, and is a very popular route, often having two or three parties working their way up it at the same time. Icefall can be serious as a result. This line is shaded from sunlight for all but the first daylight hour of the morning and the final hour or so of sunset in the evening. Even then, only the upper section receives any sunlight at all. As a result, the North Face is a cold route, especially in windy conditions, when spindrift combined with exposure to high winds can result in frostbite for poorly-prepared climbers, even during warm summer months.
This big alpine ice face was one of the first big ice walls to be climbed in Canada. The first ascent was made by D. Soper and D. Rau in 1971. It is a classic ice route in North American mountaineering and ice climbing history, and is often the route of choice for novice ice climbers as a first ascent. The entire route can be climbed in seven or eight 60 meter pitches, depending on where you set up your belays.
North Face - Approach
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from theColumbia Icefield Centre , which is located 103 kilometers south of Jasper, or 189 kilometers north of Banff, Alberta, in the Columbia Icefield .
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
Right photo byMack Muir
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from the
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
Right photo by
From the trailhead begin hiking up an obvious packed scree trail which follows the crest of the moraines right to a small, flat false glacier. Most parties rope up here. Access the real glacier just to the left of this spot. Hike up the glacier's sustained 30-35 degree slopes until you reach a slightly steeper rise with a large crevasse near the bottom and a col at the top. Here you will notice a large dark rock formation to your left, and the bottom of the Silverhorn massif to the right. Slightly before this spot at the col you will pass the exit point to climb the North Glacier. Depending on your party's rate of travel, it could take a few hours to reach this spot from the trailhead. You will proceed straight up and over the col at this point. A small exposed rock will be noticeable to your right as you pass the bottom of the Silverhorn route.
As you climb over the slight col here and keep going forward you will see the large amphitheater of the North Face ahead of you, just slightly off to the right. You will be at approximately 10,000 feet at this point. As you make your way down into the amphitheater and the obvious staging area for the climb itself, you will gradually descend about a hundred meters of elevation by the time you reach the bergeschrund of the North Face.
Photo by Dow Williams
As you climb over the slight col here and keep going forward you will see the large amphitheater of the North Face ahead of you, just slightly off to the right. You will be at approximately 10,000 feet at this point. As you make your way down into the amphitheater and the obvious staging area for the climb itself, you will gradually descend about a hundred meters of elevation by the time you reach the bergeschrund of the North Face.
North Face - Route Description
Cross the bergeschrund, which will often be filled with snow and avalanche debris until later in the season. Climb the alpine ice face towards an obvious cleft in the rock band. In spring you can kick steps in the snow up the lower part of the face. Depending on the team, a fixed belay may be used or, for the sake of speed, a running belay can be used while both climbers simul-climb the route. The ice will generally be found to be 50-60 degrees. Five pitches should get you to the rock band, which is the crux of the climb.
You will see an obvious entrance gully through the rock band, which weaves its way upwards and slightly to the right from the top of the ice face. The route through the gully is wide enough to be easily noticeable. It aims for a short rock section (5.4) which is the crux; about 75 degrees of vertical, approximately eight to ten feet high. The route then climbs up a steep snow chute to the final snowfield, which is angled at about 45 degrees. Climb the snowfield to the summit ridge, then follow the almost-horizontal ridge to the summit, which is slightly to the right.
If a retreat becomes necessary, rappelling is the fastest and safest way down this route, especially when others are on the face as well. Icefall can be horrendous in such a case. The route can be downclimbed, but ice screw anchors and belays must be used for safety, resulting in the top climber downclimbing while cleaning the route of gear set by the lower climber, and requiring a belay by the anchored climber below; a simple reversal of the procedure used to climb the face. More serious than their actual expense, ice screws left in the face would eventually melt out and fall.
Photos byKai Larson
Cross the bergeschrund, which will often be filled with snow and avalanche debris until later in the season. Climb the alpine ice face towards an obvious cleft in the rock band. In spring you can kick steps in the snow up the lower part of the face. Depending on the team, a fixed belay may be used or, for the sake of speed, a running belay can be used while both climbers simul-climb the route. The ice will generally be found to be 50-60 degrees. Five pitches should get you to the rock band, which is the crux of the climb.
You will see an obvious entrance gully through the rock band, which weaves its way upwards and slightly to the right from the top of the ice face. The route through the gully is wide enough to be easily noticeable. It aims for a short rock section (5.4) which is the crux; about 75 degrees of vertical, approximately eight to ten feet high. The route then climbs up a steep snow chute to the final snowfield, which is angled at about 45 degrees. Climb the snowfield to the summit ridge, then follow the almost-horizontal ridge to the summit, which is slightly to the right.
If a retreat becomes necessary, rappelling is the fastest and safest way down this route, especially when others are on the face as well. Icefall can be horrendous in such a case. The route can be downclimbed, but ice screw anchors and belays must be used for safety, resulting in the top climber downclimbing while cleaning the route of gear set by the lower climber, and requiring a belay by the anchored climber below; a simple reversal of the procedure used to climb the face. More serious than their actual expense, ice screws left in the face would eventually melt out and fall.
Photos by
Note: There is a variation through the rock band, as well. It is more direct, but less used, and leads through more rock than the right side option. It is about 40-50 meters to the left of the right gully route. Climb the ice face to the highest point and set a piton belay in the rock band. Climb up and right for about 20 feet then straight up a steeper section (slightly harder than the 5.4 crux on the first gully option) protected by fixed pitons. A full pitch will take you to ice where you can belay from ice screws. From that point it is another 30 meters to the summit ridge.
Grade higher on the North Face crux?
As a result of the drier spells seen over the last few years, I asked Canadian climber and guideBarry Blanchard if he felt the meltoff of ice had changed the grade at all on the North Face. This was his response: "Yes, I think that ice has melted away from the footing of the crux pitch. Seemed to me like it was more like 5.7 mixed climbing last time that I did it in dry conditions. Some fixed gear around. I'll bet that it is probably a grade 2ish ice step right now given the amount of moisture we've had combined with recent cold. Twenty-four hours is a long time in the life of a mountain."
Apparently before this exchange on October 13, 2005, the area had endured a long wet spell followed by cold weather. Things can change fast on Mt. Athabasca. But dry conditions definitely crank up the grade at the crux on the face. The bare rock section has been reported to be over twenty feet in height, with a few fixed pins present.
Grade higher on the North Face crux?
As a result of the drier spells seen over the last few years, I asked Canadian climber and guide
Apparently before this exchange on October 13, 2005, the area had endured a long wet spell followed by cold weather. Things can change fast on Mt. Athabasca. But dry conditions definitely crank up the grade at the crux on the face. The bare rock section has been reported to be over twenty feet in height, with a few fixed pins present.
Essential Gear
Two sixty meter double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappell was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
Standard glacier travel gear would be required to reach the route from the trailhead. A rack of six to ten ice screws, a helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points or monopoints work better on steeper technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm belay jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is a cold face with little sunlight, and often is exposed to blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be a good idea to wear while on the face, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Two sixty meter double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappell was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
Standard glacier travel gear would be required to reach the route from the trailhead. A rack of six to ten ice screws, a helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points or monopoints work better on steeper technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm belay jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is a cold face with little sunlight, and often is exposed to blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be a good idea to wear while on the face, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. The Hourglass route in particular can be rendered much more hazardous and technical by early meltoff.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the North Face climb. An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this face; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice from parties high on the face can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the face. Dropped gear and ice tools can make this fun ascent treacherous as well. Never climb directly below another party on this face.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. The Hourglass route in particular can be rendered much more hazardous and technical by early meltoff.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the North Face climb. An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this face; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice from parties high on the face can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the face. Dropped gear and ice tools can make this fun ascent treacherous as well. Never climb directly below another party on this face.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
The routes illustrated above in Sean Dougherty's book, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" are, from left to right: North Ridge, North Face, Hourglass, Silverhorn and the North Glacier route. The Snocoach road and trailhead are seen near the bottom of the photo.
North Face - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the North Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
Images courtesy ofMack Muir , Dow Williams and Kai Larson .
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the North Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
Images courtesy of
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.