North Glacier - Overview
Mt. Athabasca's standard North Glacier route, is a classic, if non-technical line consisting mainly of steep glacier travel in various conditions, depending on how late in the season it is being used. It is not unusual to see other parties on the route, or even at the summit, at the same time. The North Glacier route has become the most popular ascent in the Canadian Rockies for climbers attempting their first big alpine climb.
The first ascent of this route was made in August, 1920 by E. Feuz Jr., J.W.A. Hickson and E.L. Redford. The North Glacier route was used as the descent route byJ. Norman Collie and Herman Woolley , who made the actual first ascent of Mt. Athabasca by the North Ridge in August, 1898.
Photo by Unknown
Mt. Athabasca's standard North Glacier route, is a classic, if non-technical line consisting mainly of steep glacier travel in various conditions, depending on how late in the season it is being used. It is not unusual to see other parties on the route, or even at the summit, at the same time. The North Glacier route has become the most popular ascent in the Canadian Rockies for climbers attempting their first big alpine climb.
The first ascent of this route was made in August, 1920 by E. Feuz Jr., J.W.A. Hickson and E.L. Redford. The North Glacier route was used as the descent route by
North Glacier - Approach
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from theColumbia Icefield Centre , which is located 103 kilometers south of Jasper, or 189 kilometers north of Banff, Alberta, in the Columbia Icefield .
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
From the trailhead begin hiking up an obvious packed scree trail which follows the crest of the moraines right to a small, flat false glacier. Most parties rope up here. Access the real glacier just to the left of this spot. Hike up the glacier's sustained 30-35 degree slopes until you reach a slightly steeper rise with a large crevasse near the bottom and a col at the top. Here you will notice a large dark rock formation to your left, and the bottom of the Silverhorn massif to the right. Depending on your party's rate of travel, it could take a couple of hours to reach this spot from the trailhead. You will turn off to the right at this point, rather than climb up this rising slope.
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from the
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
From the trailhead begin hiking up an obvious packed scree trail which follows the crest of the moraines right to a small, flat false glacier. Most parties rope up here. Access the real glacier just to the left of this spot. Hike up the glacier's sustained 30-35 degree slopes until you reach a slightly steeper rise with a large crevasse near the bottom and a col at the top. Here you will notice a large dark rock formation to your left, and the bottom of the Silverhorn massif to the right. Depending on your party's rate of travel, it could take a couple of hours to reach this spot from the trailhead. You will turn off to the right at this point, rather than climb up this rising slope.
North Glacier Route Description
Head in a westerly direction, with the northwest slope of the Silverhorn massif to your left. Be careful to keep a good distance between your party and the ice cliffs near the bottom flanks of the Silverhorn at this point as large seracs calf off here from time to time, breaking up and rolling down the slope towards the route. On my first trip here I encountered a fallen serac the size of a small bus beside the trail.
This area is an obvious avalanche bowl, collects a lot of snow in very short time during storms or high winds, being on the lee side of the mountain, and is often wind-loaded to the point that makes this route unsafe. This high slope is also noticeably steeper than the glacier you have climbed to approach the route, with more crevasses, which are bigger and more obvious than the few crevasses you may have had to jump over up to this point. This is due to the fact that the glacier on this steeper slope is not as compacted as the lower glacier. Most of the crevasses on this part of the route will be seen to your right, while the bergeschrund and seracs will be on your left side as you kick steps up this slope.
Ascend this slope, slowly turning to the right in a broad circle as you pick your way along this snowy catwalk, using an ice ax handle to self belay at the steepest spots. You will reach a small col at the final stretch of the bench at the bottom of the Silverhorn, and by now you will have a panorama of the Columbia Icefield in front of you, off to the west. Depending on snow or ice conditions you may want to put crampons on at this point as there are few comfortable places to stop and put them on from here to the Silverhorn summit, and ice may be encountered at the upper Silverhorn on this route.
Left and center photos byDow Williams ; Right photo by Mack Muir
Head in a westerly direction, with the northwest slope of the Silverhorn massif to your left. Be careful to keep a good distance between your party and the ice cliffs near the bottom flanks of the Silverhorn at this point as large seracs calf off here from time to time, breaking up and rolling down the slope towards the route. On my first trip here I encountered a fallen serac the size of a small bus beside the trail.
This area is an obvious avalanche bowl, collects a lot of snow in very short time during storms or high winds, being on the lee side of the mountain, and is often wind-loaded to the point that makes this route unsafe. This high slope is also noticeably steeper than the glacier you have climbed to approach the route, with more crevasses, which are bigger and more obvious than the few crevasses you may have had to jump over up to this point. This is due to the fact that the glacier on this steeper slope is not as compacted as the lower glacier. Most of the crevasses on this part of the route will be seen to your right, while the bergeschrund and seracs will be on your left side as you kick steps up this slope.
Ascend this slope, slowly turning to the right in a broad circle as you pick your way along this snowy catwalk, using an ice ax handle to self belay at the steepest spots. You will reach a small col at the final stretch of the bench at the bottom of the Silverhorn, and by now you will have a panorama of the Columbia Icefield in front of you, off to the west. Depending on snow or ice conditions you may want to put crampons on at this point as there are few comfortable places to stop and put them on from here to the Silverhorn summit, and ice may be encountered at the upper Silverhorn on this route.
Left and center photos by
Climb the switchbacked trail (if there is one) to the summit of the Silverhorn, which is a small, fairly flat circle about forty feet around, tapering off sharply on all sides. Once on the Silverhorn summit, avoid the sides as they are often well-iced. At this point you will see the final imposing summit ridge, which rises only slightly to the final main summit to the southeast. You will have to descend the Silverhorn slightly, losing a little elevation to gain access to the final ridge.
Traverse this ridge at its crest or slightly to the south side of it. There is a little mild exposure for part of the way, then you will see a long, sloping, snowy ledge about twenty feet below the crest, which would stop a fall should you slip to the south at this point. Do not traverse the ridge on the North Face snowfield; it's fifteen hundred feet down to the glacier here, and steep. This snowfield can be wind-loaded and avalanche-prone at times as well.
This last hike along the final ridge is the icing on the cake....the views are beautiful, with the vast Columbia Icefield and all the major peaks it encompasses spread out in a moon-like panorama around you. If you want to rest at the summit, simply drop down the south side about twenty feet to the aforementioned sloping, snow ledge and take it all in.
Traverse this ridge at its crest or slightly to the south side of it. There is a little mild exposure for part of the way, then you will see a long, sloping, snowy ledge about twenty feet below the crest, which would stop a fall should you slip to the south at this point. Do not traverse the ridge on the North Face snowfield; it's fifteen hundred feet down to the glacier here, and steep. This snowfield can be wind-loaded and avalanche-prone at times as well.
This last hike along the final ridge is the icing on the cake....the views are beautiful, with the vast Columbia Icefield and all the major peaks it encompasses spread out in a moon-like panorama around you. If you want to rest at the summit, simply drop down the south side about twenty feet to the aforementioned sloping, snow ledge and take it all in.
Essential Gear for Glacier Travel
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Photo by Rob H. Laird
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the North Glacier route and Silverhorn can be covered in ice much sooner than in years past.
Wind-loading and avalanche conditions, during spring months or after storms, can make this route unsafe. The AA Col route is probably the safest ascent and descent route on the peak during any kind of poor conditions. The North Glacier route often features heavy lee-side loading after a storm, and large avalanches are the possible and predictable result. However, the North Glacier route is probably the most commonly used route on the mountain. Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the glacier and lower slopes of this mountain.
A safer route for descent, especially on wind loaded aspects of the North Glacier route, is to descend to the bench at the bottom of the western slopes of the Silverhorn and head west to the AA Col and downclimb the col.
Depending on icy conditions, rappelling may be required to gain access to the lower AA glacier. You will have to cross the bergeschrund to get on the glacier, if this crevasse is not filled with debris. It is on a slope - do not jump over it wearing crampons. Leg or ankle injuries could be the result.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the North Glacier route and Silverhorn can be covered in ice much sooner than in years past.
Wind-loading and avalanche conditions, during spring months or after storms, can make this route unsafe. The AA Col route is probably the safest ascent and descent route on the peak during any kind of poor conditions. The North Glacier route often features heavy lee-side loading after a storm, and large avalanches are the possible and predictable result. However, the North Glacier route is probably the most commonly used route on the mountain. Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the glacier and lower slopes of this mountain.
A safer route for descent, especially on wind loaded aspects of the North Glacier route, is to descend to the bench at the bottom of the western slopes of the Silverhorn and head west to the AA Col and downclimb the col.
Depending on icy conditions, rappelling may be required to gain access to the lower AA glacier. You will have to cross the bergeschrund to get on the glacier, if this crevasse is not filled with debris. It is on a slope - do not jump over it wearing crampons. Leg or ankle injuries could be the result.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
The routes illustrated above in Sean Dougherty's book, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" are, from left to right: North Ridge, North Face, Hourglass, Silverhorn and the North Glacier route. The Snocoach road and trailhead are seen near the bottom of the photo.
North Glacier - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the North Glacier route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
Route images were contributed courtesy of Rob H. Laird,Dow Williams and Mack Muir.
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the North Glacier route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
Route images were contributed courtesy of Rob H. Laird,
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.