North Ridge – Overview
Mt. Athabasca's North Ridge is one of the least-climbed routes on the mountain; an airy, often-exposed arete composed of dismally poor and loose-quality rock, steep snow traverses, poor possibilities for protection as well as rockfall and sluffing hazards. Many climbers who climb this ridge do so by accessing the crest higher up via the snow and icefields of its face, rather than have to contend with the loose scrambling on the lower sections. Some climbers refer to the quality of rock on the North Ridge as the worst they have ever seen. The crest of the ridge is mainly narrow, with large pinnacles and rock formations which must be surpassed by traversing steep, exposed snowfields directly below them. Sliding snow and cliff bands below the traverses add to the hazards found on this route.
First Ascent
The first ascent of Mt. Athabasca was made by J. Norman Collie and Herbert Wooley, who climbed the mountain by the North Ridge in August, 1898. They obviously felt this was not the best option for descent, and instead climbed down the line which is now known as the North Glacier route.
Photos byDow Williams
Mt. Athabasca's North Ridge is one of the least-climbed routes on the mountain; an airy, often-exposed arete composed of dismally poor and loose-quality rock, steep snow traverses, poor possibilities for protection as well as rockfall and sluffing hazards. Many climbers who climb this ridge do so by accessing the crest higher up via the snow and icefields of its face, rather than have to contend with the loose scrambling on the lower sections. Some climbers refer to the quality of rock on the North Ridge as the worst they have ever seen. The crest of the ridge is mainly narrow, with large pinnacles and rock formations which must be surpassed by traversing steep, exposed snowfields directly below them. Sliding snow and cliff bands below the traverses add to the hazards found on this route.
First Ascent
The first ascent of Mt. Athabasca was made by J. Norman Collie and Herbert Wooley, who climbed the mountain by the North Ridge in August, 1898. They obviously felt this was not the best option for descent, and instead climbed down the line which is now known as the North Glacier route.
Photos by
North Ridge – Approach
The approach to the North Ridge route starts at the main trailhead at the climbers' parking lot on the Snocoach Road, just west of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. Begin by hiking up the obvious worn trail on the moraine just to the right of the parking lot and metal climbers' register pedestal/box. After approximately ten minutes and about 100 meters of elevation gain you should reach a less-worn trail that forks to the left, heading towards a large stream fed by meltoff from Mt. Athabasca's glacier. This turnoff is right at the point where the main trail quickly steepens as it begins to run up the crest of the moraine, gaining elevation as it winds gradually to the right.
Follow the stream up a long drainage composed of large boulders, talus, and easy cliff bands. Pick a suitable spot and cross over to the left side. You will reach the toe of the glacier, and likely want to rope up. The glacier is well-compacted at this point and you are unlikely to encounter as many crevasses here as you will find higher on the glacier, but on the lower glacier there are many large, deep open cracks with freezing meltwater running through them to the drainage system that feeds the stream running off the mountain. Ascend the lower glacier, avoiding the main crevasse fields to your right as you rapidly gain elevation. Head for a snowy col between the lower North Ridge and Peak A2, a small, rocky subsidiary summit low on the flanks of Mt. Athabasca's north side, near the Icefield Parkway, Gain the col and follow it to the broad, lower slopes of the North Ridge. The terrain here is mainly a snow climb with some small rock formations and pinnacles to move around as you head up the ridge, and you will have no problems accessing the ridge from the col.
Note: For those wishing to bypass the loose and chossy rock and the accompanying dangers of the lower ridge, the ridge may be accessed higher up by climbing the face to the higher, snowy section. To do so, the same approach could be followed for the North Face route. Just keep going straight where you would normally turn off to reach the amphitheater at the bottom of the North Face.
Photos by Rob H. Laird
The approach to the North Ridge route starts at the main trailhead at the climbers' parking lot on the Snocoach Road, just west of the Columbia Icefield Centre on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. Begin by hiking up the obvious worn trail on the moraine just to the right of the parking lot and metal climbers' register pedestal/box. After approximately ten minutes and about 100 meters of elevation gain you should reach a less-worn trail that forks to the left, heading towards a large stream fed by meltoff from Mt. Athabasca's glacier. This turnoff is right at the point where the main trail quickly steepens as it begins to run up the crest of the moraine, gaining elevation as it winds gradually to the right.
Follow the stream up a long drainage composed of large boulders, talus, and easy cliff bands. Pick a suitable spot and cross over to the left side. You will reach the toe of the glacier, and likely want to rope up. The glacier is well-compacted at this point and you are unlikely to encounter as many crevasses here as you will find higher on the glacier, but on the lower glacier there are many large, deep open cracks with freezing meltwater running through them to the drainage system that feeds the stream running off the mountain. Ascend the lower glacier, avoiding the main crevasse fields to your right as you rapidly gain elevation. Head for a snowy col between the lower North Ridge and Peak A2, a small, rocky subsidiary summit low on the flanks of Mt. Athabasca's north side, near the Icefield Parkway, Gain the col and follow it to the broad, lower slopes of the North Ridge. The terrain here is mainly a snow climb with some small rock formations and pinnacles to move around as you head up the ridge, and you will have no problems accessing the ridge from the col.
Note: For those wishing to bypass the loose and chossy rock and the accompanying dangers of the lower ridge, the ridge may be accessed higher up by climbing the face to the higher, snowy section. To do so, the same approach could be followed for the North Face route. Just keep going straight where you would normally turn off to reach the amphitheater at the bottom of the North Face.
Photos by Rob H. Laird
North Ridge – Route Description
Once on the ridge itself, climb up the center, staying on the snow, which will likely be a safer option than any rock you will find. Scramble around any rocky sections or pinnacles as you gain elevation. This route is mainly a combination of steep snow climbing and scrambling on very loose, poor-quality rock. As you gain altitude, the ridge sides become steeper, with much exposure and cliffs bands below the crest. Stay to the left when reaching any difficult sections. Poor rock quality on this lower section of the North Ridge often results in climbers attempting to acces the ridge higher up by climbing the face itself, closer to the North Face route.
You will encounter some very steep snow sections which you will be required to traverse as you move up the ridge. As the temperature warms up, snow conditions on this ridge will quickly deteriorate and the possibilitiy of sluffing, avalanche or rockfall increase as a result. Several accidents have occurred on this ridge during poor conditions in recent years, resulting in injuries and fatalities from rockfall, avalanche and falls.
Once on the upper section, much of the dangerous, loose rocky areas will have been passed and the route becomes mainly a snow climb up the higher section of the North Ridge. Several areas are quite exposed and shortroping will be necessary in places.The crux is a very steep pitch about 30 meters long. Once past this you will gain the snow-covered shoulder near the top of the ridge. Follow the ridge to the final summit ridge, which is mainly just a walk with little elevation gain and some mild exposure above steep snowfields.
Once on the ridge itself, climb up the center, staying on the snow, which will likely be a safer option than any rock you will find. Scramble around any rocky sections or pinnacles as you gain elevation. This route is mainly a combination of steep snow climbing and scrambling on very loose, poor-quality rock. As you gain altitude, the ridge sides become steeper, with much exposure and cliffs bands below the crest. Stay to the left when reaching any difficult sections. Poor rock quality on this lower section of the North Ridge often results in climbers attempting to acces the ridge higher up by climbing the face itself, closer to the North Face route.
You will encounter some very steep snow sections which you will be required to traverse as you move up the ridge. As the temperature warms up, snow conditions on this ridge will quickly deteriorate and the possibilitiy of sluffing, avalanche or rockfall increase as a result. Several accidents have occurred on this ridge during poor conditions in recent years, resulting in injuries and fatalities from rockfall, avalanche and falls.
Once on the upper section, much of the dangerous, loose rocky areas will have been passed and the route becomes mainly a snow climb up the higher section of the North Ridge. Several areas are quite exposed and shortroping will be necessary in places.The crux is a very steep pitch about 30 meters long. Once past this you will gain the snow-covered shoulder near the top of the ridge. Follow the ridge to the final summit ridge, which is mainly just a walk with little elevation gain and some mild exposure above steep snowfields.
Essential Gear
All climbers on a glacier should naturally carry an ice ax and wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered. A small rack of rock gear, including a few cams, nuts, tri-cams, slings and quickdraws should be considered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
All climbers on a glacier should naturally carry an ice ax and wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered. A small rack of rock gear, including a few cams, nuts, tri-cams, slings and quickdraws should be considered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the North Glacier route and Silverhorn can be covered in ice much sooner than in years past.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the north side of Mt. Athabasca.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Photo at left by Unknown
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The steeper routes such as the North Face, the Hourglass and the North Ridge in particular have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty on the routes, especially when climbing through the crux areas on these routes. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the North Glacier route and Silverhorn can be covered in ice much sooner than in years past.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the north side of Mt. Athabasca.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Photo at left by Unknown
The routes illustrated above in Sean Dougherty's book, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" are, from left to right: North Ridge, North Face, Hourglass, Silverhorn and the North Glacier route. The Snocoach road and trailhead are seen near the bottom of the photo.
North Ridge – Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the North Ridge route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the North Ridge route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.