Northeast Face - Approach
The trailhead can be reached by travelling west on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail, from the Jasper National Park entrance gate for approximately fifteen miles. You will see the mountain and its huge limestone cliffs in profile from some distance, and as you approach it you will see its giant face on your left. The trailhead is on the left (south) side of the highway, where there is a turnout, with a short drop and a small gravel parking lot, and an old utility road leading away from the parking lot towards the peak. The metal gate in the back of the parking lot blocks vehicles from access to the backcountry, and is always kept locked by Northwestern Utilities.
When approaching the trailhead from the town of Jasper, Alberta on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail, travel 40 kilometers (25 miles) to reach this same gate, which of course will be on your right side. It's easy to miss when heading east; a large rock formation and growth of forest blocks the mountain from view until you are almost upon the trailhead turnout. Pull into the small parking lot and park.
The trailhead can be reached by travelling west on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail, from the Jasper National Park entrance gate for approximately fifteen miles. You will see the mountain and its huge limestone cliffs in profile from some distance, and as you approach it you will see its giant face on your left. The trailhead is on the left (south) side of the highway, where there is a turnout, with a short drop and a small gravel parking lot, and an old utility road leading away from the parking lot towards the peak. The metal gate in the back of the parking lot blocks vehicles from access to the backcountry, and is always kept locked by Northwestern Utilities.
When approaching the trailhead from the town of Jasper, Alberta on Highway 16, the Yellowhead Trail, travel 40 kilometers (25 miles) to reach this same gate, which of course will be on your right side. It's easy to miss when heading east; a large rock formation and growth of forest blocks the mountain from view until you are almost upon the trailhead turnout. Pull into the small parking lot and park.
Head through this gate (or rather, around it) on foot and continue down an old gravel road which takes off a little to the right, then curves left along a gravel dike, about six feet in height. The track continues, taking you in a direction just to the left of the peak, which is in view. You will make a sharp left turn with the road as it heads off even more to the left of the peak and continues east. Follow this old bullddozer / utility cut line for about ten minutes, where you will see a well-worn trail heading off into the trees to your right. This entry spot is usually marked with ribbons on the shrubs at the right edge of the road. Further ahead is a drainage that leads to Roche Miette's col, but it is harder going than the trail, often full of runoff in the spring, and is not recommended as an approach.
Follow the trail through the trees towards the long approach ridge, and cross the drainage. The trail continues up the opposite bank of the drainage onto the lower part of the ridge. As you gain elevation the trail steepens considerably. Take the right fork in the trail when you reach it, then turn left on the next fork. This trail keeps you going up the most well-travelled part of the ridge, and keeps you away from the lower, faint trails that fade in and out along the side of the ridge. These lower trails can be loose and slightly exposed in places.
An hour or so of hiking up this long ridge will put you around tree line, away from the soft, worn trail and into the scree that continues right up to the summit. Above tree line the trail steepens and often the wind picks up noticeably as well. The sides of the ridge are loose, exposed and a slide down these slopes to the drainage below would be difficult to arrest, resulting in severe injuries or a fatality. The hike towards the ridge's shoulder, which can't be seen from this point, is long and will take another half hour or more, as you pass exposed outcrops of shattered rock, mossy beds of tiny alpine flowers, and high mountain scenery with vistas on three sides. You will reach a rock cairn at the ridge shoulder, which is a good place to rest and study the route up the mountain's Northeast Face.
Follow the trail through the trees towards the long approach ridge, and cross the drainage. The trail continues up the opposite bank of the drainage onto the lower part of the ridge. As you gain elevation the trail steepens considerably. Take the right fork in the trail when you reach it, then turn left on the next fork. This trail keeps you going up the most well-travelled part of the ridge, and keeps you away from the lower, faint trails that fade in and out along the side of the ridge. These lower trails can be loose and slightly exposed in places.
An hour or so of hiking up this long ridge will put you around tree line, away from the soft, worn trail and into the scree that continues right up to the summit. Above tree line the trail steepens and often the wind picks up noticeably as well. The sides of the ridge are loose, exposed and a slide down these slopes to the drainage below would be difficult to arrest, resulting in severe injuries or a fatality. The hike towards the ridge's shoulder, which can't be seen from this point, is long and will take another half hour or more, as you pass exposed outcrops of shattered rock, mossy beds of tiny alpine flowers, and high mountain scenery with vistas on three sides. You will reach a rock cairn at the ridge shoulder, which is a good place to rest and study the route up the mountain's Northeast Face.
Northeast Face - Route Description
You will see that you must then hike down a slight slope to reach a short, gentle col. In winter this col can be snow-covered; depending on the amount of snow, a slide could be triggered here. In the summer it is just a hike across loose scree. Cross the col, then head off slightly to the left and begin hiking up a long, steep gully that heads directly up the Northeast Face. This gully can be hiked right up to just below the summit, but it is extremely loose and difficult to ascend. There is a short rock chimney right at the top of the chimney that must be climbed for about twenty feet to reach the short, easy and rocky summit slopes.
However, most parties head to the left off the gully through a series of short cliff bands. The trail is usually obvious, and you generally just keep heading left as the cliff bands are approached. Handholds and stances can be of questionable quality on this face, and should be tested before committing your weight to them, prior to your next move. When you reach the broad, unulating summit plateau, head right to the most popularly visited summit on the peak. The actual high point is to the south, but the summit there and the surrounding area is usually in a state of collapse, and unfortunately does not present the same views as the "front" side of the peak.
Once on the summit plateau, and having turned right, you will hike slightly upward for about fifteen minutes, crest a small rise and reach the summit cairn on a small prow which overlooks the ledges of the huge North Face. This area is very uneven and shattered; care must be taken while travelling on it. The front, lower ledges can be reached from the summit by means of a faint, loose and slightly exposed trail which heads down on the west side of the summit block. The front ledges, two to three hundred feet lower, are extremely loose and covered in scree, talus and boulders. Care should be taken not to approach any ledges too closely to avoid risk of a slip, fall or rock collapse which could result in injuries or a fatality.
The summit affords vistas as far away to the west as Pyramid Mountain, behind Jasper Township, and far beyond the foothills and farmland surrounding the town of Hinton to the east. Descend the peak by the same route you climbed. You will find the descent of the upper ridge to be a slippery and knee-jarring affair.
You will see that you must then hike down a slight slope to reach a short, gentle col. In winter this col can be snow-covered; depending on the amount of snow, a slide could be triggered here. In the summer it is just a hike across loose scree. Cross the col, then head off slightly to the left and begin hiking up a long, steep gully that heads directly up the Northeast Face. This gully can be hiked right up to just below the summit, but it is extremely loose and difficult to ascend. There is a short rock chimney right at the top of the chimney that must be climbed for about twenty feet to reach the short, easy and rocky summit slopes.
However, most parties head to the left off the gully through a series of short cliff bands. The trail is usually obvious, and you generally just keep heading left as the cliff bands are approached. Handholds and stances can be of questionable quality on this face, and should be tested before committing your weight to them, prior to your next move. When you reach the broad, unulating summit plateau, head right to the most popularly visited summit on the peak. The actual high point is to the south, but the summit there and the surrounding area is usually in a state of collapse, and unfortunately does not present the same views as the "front" side of the peak.
Once on the summit plateau, and having turned right, you will hike slightly upward for about fifteen minutes, crest a small rise and reach the summit cairn on a small prow which overlooks the ledges of the huge North Face. This area is very uneven and shattered; care must be taken while travelling on it. The front, lower ledges can be reached from the summit by means of a faint, loose and slightly exposed trail which heads down on the west side of the summit block. The front ledges, two to three hundred feet lower, are extremely loose and covered in scree, talus and boulders. Care should be taken not to approach any ledges too closely to avoid risk of a slip, fall or rock collapse which could result in injuries or a fatality.
The summit affords vistas as far away to the west as Pyramid Mountain, behind Jasper Township, and far beyond the foothills and farmland surrounding the town of Hinton to the east. Descend the peak by the same route you climbed. You will find the descent of the upper ridge to be a slippery and knee-jarring affair.
Essential Gear
A good pair of sturdy hiking boots would be appropriate for a scramble of this nature. Hiking runners and light-duty boots will leave your feet sore and tired, and expose your ankles and knees to sprains from the many slips and minor tumbles which can accompany a hike on rough terrain. A pair of hiking poles are invaluable and will help to prevent strain to the lower back and body, as well as helping you to conserve energy and keep your balance. A helmet is a must; rockfall is common here. Many rockfalls are caused by climbers on the route, but some are naturally triggered.
There is no source of water on this route; all necessary water for the duration of the climb must be carried up. In summer this route can be made more taxing by the heat waves that can often settle on this characteristically arid area.
In winter, an ice ax and crampons become necessary in case ice is encountered, or self-arrest becomes necessary on steep areas covered by snow. This is an extremely cold and windy climb above tree line in the winter, and storm goggles help maintain proper vision through freezing winds and spindrift, assuring safer orienteering on the route.
A good pair of sturdy hiking boots would be appropriate for a scramble of this nature. Hiking runners and light-duty boots will leave your feet sore and tired, and expose your ankles and knees to sprains from the many slips and minor tumbles which can accompany a hike on rough terrain. A pair of hiking poles are invaluable and will help to prevent strain to the lower back and body, as well as helping you to conserve energy and keep your balance. A helmet is a must; rockfall is common here. Many rockfalls are caused by climbers on the route, but some are naturally triggered.
There is no source of water on this route; all necessary water for the duration of the climb must be carried up. In summer this route can be made more taxing by the heat waves that can often settle on this characteristically arid area.
In winter, an ice ax and crampons become necessary in case ice is encountered, or self-arrest becomes necessary on steep areas covered by snow. This is an extremely cold and windy climb above tree line in the winter, and storm goggles help maintain proper vision through freezing winds and spindrift, assuring safer orienteering on the route.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
Much of the terrain along this route is loose; rockfall is a hazard, especially on the Northeast Face. Unpleasant bushwhacking can be the result of getting off route on the approach ridge, or before accessing the ridge. This route is subject to various objective hazards, including but not restricted to: getting lost, wild animal attacks, slips, falls, rockfall, rock collapse with regards to holds and stances, lightning strikes, high winds, thunderstorms; as well as whiteouts, snow and ice buildup, avalanches and extremely cold temperatures with high windchills in winter.
Unroped climbing and scrambling is dangerous. Climb at your own risk
Much of the terrain along this route is loose; rockfall is a hazard, especially on the Northeast Face. Unpleasant bushwhacking can be the result of getting off route on the approach ridge, or before accessing the ridge. This route is subject to various objective hazards, including but not restricted to: getting lost, wild animal attacks, slips, falls, rockfall, rock collapse with regards to holds and stances, lightning strikes, high winds, thunderstorms; as well as whiteouts, snow and ice buildup, avalanches and extremely cold temperatures with high windchills in winter.
Unroped climbing and scrambling is dangerous. Climb at your own risk
Northeast Face - Miscellaneous Information
There is an abundance of wildlife in this area, and it is not unusual to see bears, mountain lions, wolves, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, marmots, deer, and coyotes here. Tracks and game trails are often in view along the route. Be aware that you are in real bear country here; grizzly and black bears are indigenous to the area, and are often agressive and hungry during the early part of the spring season, when they have just risen from hibernation.
There is an abundance of wildlife in this area, and it is not unusual to see bears, mountain lions, wolves, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, marmots, deer, and coyotes here. Tracks and game trails are often in view along the route. Be aware that you are in real bear country here; grizzly and black bears are indigenous to the area, and are often agressive and hungry during the early part of the spring season, when they have just risen from hibernation.
Northeast Face - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the Northeast Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
The information contained on the Northeast Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at